First, a little bit of history.

Although the origins of the Tango are somewhat obscure due to the passage of time, the Tango is believed to have originated in the "Milonga". The original Milonga was a local Argentine dance which itself evolved from a mix of the Cuban Habanera and the Polka, sometime in the mid-1800s (in the city where it was popular with the Compadritos the Milonga was sometimes referred to as the "poor man's habanera").

The steps of this original Milonga are no longer known in detail; however it is believed that around 1870-1880 the dance was then modified by inclusion of several elements of an african-argentine dance called the "Candombe". This later form of the Milonga is considered to be the embryonic form of the Tango before the new dance was given it's name.

Because of this association a dance event in Buenos Aires is not actually called a Tango Dance, but a "Milonga".

What is danced at a "Milonga"? Is it only Tangos?

There are three dances danced at a "Milonga". Predominantly, the Tango, of course, and two other dances; the Vals (Argentine Waltz) and the Milonga, which is still very popular.

Valses are similar in tempo to the Viennese Waltz, although danced in slow time (i.e basically one step per measure). The Vals does not have it's own set of steps/figures; Tango steps (adapted to fit the rhythm, of course) are danced.

The Milonga has it's own unique steps and is a very lively dance, usually played at somewhat faster tempos than Tangos, although there are some wonderful slow milongas by the great Francisco Canaro. However, many people will dance basic Tango steps/figures, particularly if they don't know the Milonga steps - nobody has to sit out a dance if they don't want to!

The "structure" of a Milonga.

The typical structure of a Milonga begins with a set ("Tanda") of four Tangos, all by the same orchestra in order to evoke a particular mood/feeling. Then another four Tangos by a different orchestra. These might then be followed by a set of Milongas. Then two more sets of Tangos followed by a set of Valses.

In between each set is a brief snatch of some typically incomprehensible music as a signal that the set has ended ("Cortina"). The dancers return to their seats/tables, and look around for a new partner for the next tanda.

This cycle (eight tangos, milonga set, eight tangos, vals set) repeats itself through the night, with the occasional small variation. However, maybe half-way through the evening, many clubs will play a Latin set (Merengue, Salsa, Cumbia, etc) or a Swing Set. These "changes of pace" are very popular and people really enjoy dancing them. But, of course, the first and foremost dance is the Tango - this is the reason for being there.

Between each number within a set, people customarily do not begin dancing immediately at the start of a new number; they usually wait for a few seconds, talking; then several couples will take up dance position and everybody begins to dance. It is considered rude to begin to dance as soon as the new number begins - it is also often difficult since everybody else will be remaining in place for the next few seconds!
 

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